Salad bar, scenery stand out at Warren's

The baked schrod with mashed, foreground, and crab-crusted schrod. (Hungry Voice photos)

Editor's note: This is one of a weekly series reviewing restaurants in area towns that offer daily excursion opportunities for summertime fun.

The Portsmouth/Kittery area is fraught with more attractions and day-trip options than perhaps any other location less than an hour away.

There's Albacore Park, Fort Foster, Prescott Park, downtown Portsmouth shopping, Fort McClary, the Seacoast Science Center and Redhook Brewery to name just a smidgeon.

And it's so close you don't even need a full day. You can make a pleasurable outing in just a few hours.

Any trip down to the coast is mightily complemented by a visit to one of its exceptional culinary offerings of which there are so many. That said, we've always thought of Warren's Lobster House in Kittery as one of the more iconic eateries with a special pre-eminence.

Warren's began as a six-stool walk-up clam and lobster shack. This year it is celebrating its 75^th year in business.

When we arrived at opening time 11:30 a.m. sharp there were already a dozen or so patrons waiting to be seated.

If you get there early you're pretty much guaranteed to get a window seat looking out on the Piscataqua River, the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard and Badger's Island.

But you won't be sitting long. Once you order your lunch or even before, you can belly up to a salad bar that boasts almost 100 different items, including their famous homemade pumpkin bread, soup and a variety of fruit and marinated veggies.

We especially liked the pea salad, marinated brussel sprouts and mushrooms, carrot and raisin salad and spiced apple.

The view from one of Warren's comfy booths.

We also liked that when we told our waitress about gluten-free concerns, she immediately deferred to the restaurant manager who apprised us personally about all the options still available. She then told us she had notified the head chef who would personally oversee the preparation.

I would've loved to have tried their clam chowder, but it had flour. She got a cup, and it was delicious, chock full of clams and wonderful creamy flavor.

I ordered the baked schrod (haddock) with mashed potato, which came out whipped to a faretheewell, deliciously airy and beautifully seasoned. The schrod was tender and fresh, but somewhat bland and uninspiring.

She ordered the crab-crusted schrod with green beans. The crab gave the schrod a needed flavor boost, but alas, the green beans were al dente, not cooked fully to her liking.

The service, the salad bar and the view were charming, but preparation of the entrées decidedly spotty.

The total cost, with tip, (no drinks, no dessert) $46.

Warren's is a Seacoast icon and among the top spots to take family and friends visiting the area, and if you like a salad bar, you'll love it. But make no mistake about it, it's no gourmet juggernaut.

Her rating: Three of five stars.

His rating: Three and half of five stars.